This is a rare transitional Ref. 3970E in platinum, featuring a chronograph, moon phases, 24-hour, and leap-year indications. Ref. 3970 was first introduced in 1986 and discontinued in 2004, undergoing three distinct transformations. It was replaced by the Ref. 5970, which carried forward the Lemania based chronograph with perpetual calendar in a slightly larger, updated case. The first series had a snap-on solid back, followed by the second series with a waterproof screw-in case back, alongside the short-lived Ref. 3971 with a glazed back. Finally, the third series consolidated the design with both solid and glazed backs.
The present watch is an unusual “transitional” example because it retains many characteristics normally associated with the second series production along with the more contemporary third series stick hands and pointed markers. The dial is the early-production vintage opaline color, rather than the silver used in later watches, and the solid back is stamped 3970E, standing for “étanche” or waterproof, instead of the later shortened 3970 designation. The hallmarks on the outside of the lugs are deep and original, a trait usually linked to earlier, fully hand finished cases. Because hallmarks in this location are highly susceptible to polishing, their crispness here strongly indicates the watch is unpolished. The moon phase displays the traditional gold and blue enamel, rather than the modern galvanic printing of later editions, and the dial uses the faint, discreet serif font typical of early production.
The watch shows light wear consistent with careful use, yet the combination of unpolished hallmarks, stepped lugs, and the pristine dial make it particularly special. The opaline dial is in 100% amazing condition. The watch was recently fully serviced by Patek Philippe and comes with two years of warranty on the service, ensuring mechanical reliability and peace of mind.
The movement is the Calibre CH 27-70 Q, a nickel-finished lever movement stamped with the Geneva Seal, featuring 24 jewels, Gyromax balance, and a free-sprung regulator. The watch is accompanied by certificate, setting stylus, instruction manual, early production thin leather wallet, fitted presentation box, and outer box.
Manufactured in 1993, this platinum transitional 3970E represents a rare and collectible example, blending early-series charm with modern refinements and impeccable service history.
