This is a Breguet Type XX ‘Civilian version, Big Eye’ dating to early 1960s. It is a supremely charismatic vintage flyback chronograph because of its pedigree, purity of design, originality, and overall condition.
While the Breguet Type XX military version is more talked about in the collector community, it is actually the civilian version that might deserve more attention, mainly because of the attractive Big Eye design with the large and conspicuous 15-minute counter, which is rarely executed in vintage chronographs. Indeed, not many chronographs used the Valjoux 710. It’s a great timepiece with a classic military design, intended for the civilian market and indeed very rare.
It is worth noting that in the Breguet’s catalogues and references, the military models are referred to as Type 20 and the civilian models as Type XX.
The highly legible matte black dial with luminous Arabic indices is a 10/10 in terms of condition. The dial is complemented by a rotating bezel with coin edge grip, and an oversized aviator crown for easy winding with gloves set this model apart. The dial and syringe hands of this watch are all original. By contrast most of the Type 20 military were relumed because the French military required that they were serviced and tested for legibility on a regular basis – not so the rare civilian watches.
The watch is powered by a manual wind, Valjoux caliber 720, 15 minute flyback chronograph.
Background
The Type 20 model was designed according to a standard that the Aeronautique Militaire issued in the 1950s. Aesthetically, the Type 20 with its stark black dial, bold Arabic numerals, and 38mm stainless steel case resembled other military chronographs of the era. But the Type 20 had to have a fly-back function, in French, retour en vol that enabled the pilot to stop, reset and start the chronograph again by depressing the bottom pusher just once.
The watch was the culmination of a long-standing relationship between Breguet and the French Air Force dating to World War I. Breguet was known for delicate and highly complicated dress watches, and Type 20marks first time that manufacturer (responsible for many of the greatest innovations in Haute horology) dipped their toes into the world of military timepieces.
Technical Data
Manual wind, Valjoux caliber 720, 15 minute flyback chronograph, circa 1963, external rotating 12-hr bezel, Diameter: 38mm, Thickness: 13.5mm
