Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ 5402ST A-series, 1974, Excellent Condition, Archival Papers & Box

This watch is the rarest original version of the iconic Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ 5402ST in a super attractive condition. The AP Royal Oak pioneered the genre of sporty, elegant luxury watches in stainless steel when it was introduced in1972; and was the inspiration for the Patek Philippe Nautilus that followed four years later. Both watches, along with the IWC Ingineur jumbo, were designed by Gerald Genta and initially did not sell very well because of their forward-looking design, large size, and hefty price tag for a steel sports watch.

There were exceptions to the market pushback. The Shah of Iran who was a knowledgeable and prolific collector of watches and cars, purchased the first Royal Oak while it was still in the prototype stage. All three models have become highly valuable, collectible, and copied timepieces since the 1970s.

When he designed the case, Genta sought to replicate the system of an old-fashioned deep-sea divers’ suit with screws fastening the helmet to the body. The watch case is octagonal stainless steel, with brushed and polished surfaces and the bezel is fixed to the case by 8 white gold screws. The solid case back is similarly attached with screws. The case joints are visible with rubber gaskets sandwiched in to protect the movement from moisture. The hexagonal winding crown at 3 o’clock mimics the shape of the case.

The A-Series Dial

The most collectible feature of this example is the dial, which belongs to the A-series – the first iteration of the Gerald Genta design. The A-series dial is distinguished by the dark grey-blue color with 32-row petit tapisserie relief pattern, and the applied AP logo above 6 o’clock. The dial features the Type1 small logo and half-line markers behind the date aperture. In subsequent models the AP logo was moved up under 12 o’clock.

The original dial is in remarkable condition without any evidence of oxidation.

The Movement

The ultra-thin Audemars Piguet automatic caliber 2121 was based on the Jaeger LeCoultre 920 movement, just like the initial Patek Nautilus. The movements feature 36 jewels; and a mono-date. No expense was spared in designing and modifying the automatic movement to AP’s standards, making the movement a treasure in its own right. 

Accessories

This watch comes with an Archival Certificate from AP, and service papers dated 2023. The movement is authenticated and still under manufacturer’s warranty. The complete package includes the box.

Specifications