The history of Grand Seiko begins in 1960 with the introduction of the Grand Seiko Chronometer Ref 3180, also known today as Grand Seiko First. This was the first Japanese watch to pass the Chronometer rating of the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres.
Manufactured by Suwa Seikosha, it housed the caliber 3180 (later renamed 5720), which combined some characteristics of the movements previously developed by Seiko for the Lord Marvel and the Crown. The claimed accuracy was +12/-3 seconds per day. A testament to the quality of production, this example continues to keep time within the range (+6 sec/day) after 60 years.
Almost all the early examples (with the exception of a handful of platinum pieces which were not in the catalogue) were produced with a 14-Karat gold plating 80 microns thick. The dial is the SD type (Special Dial) which was typical of most gold-filled and platinum models of the 3180.
Condition Report
This is an exceptional example of the first Grand Seiko model, because it is completely original and well preserved. It has never been polished or altered.
The lugs, crown and buckle all show signs of age without any metal taken off because of polish. The buckle is very thick and angular, which is extremely rare. The crown, with its patina from multiple windings, is 100% original. The gold medallion in the back of the watch is free of any defect or scratches.
Looking beyond the case, above all, the dial, hands, and hour markers are truly superb. On this first model, the dial often shows micro-spots, which is not the case with this example.
The movement of this example is remarkably clean, and free of any spots or oxidation (which is common for snap back cases of this age). There are no scratches or marks on the plates or bridges. Similarly, the inside cap is well preserved with clear serial number 3712534 dating the watch to 1963.
Accessories
None. The strap is a new brown Seiko strap, and is the only piece that is not original to the watch.
Jewels: 25
Frequency: 18,000 VpH
Power Reserve: 48 hrs
