Breguet, extremely rare and desirable stainless steel triple calendar watch with chronograph and moon phase, circa March 1967.
Breguet wristwatches from the mid-20th century are fascinating, because in the 1950s-60s the manufacturer drifted away from the visual vernacular for which it was known for almost two centuries – notably delicate coin-edged cases made of precious metal, ornate hand-guilloché dials, and the signature slender blued steel Breguet hands – and delved into tool watches used in military aviation and marine expeditions.
These purpose-built Breguet watches are rare, because during this period Breguet was making only a handful of examples, the majority of them Type XX chronographs. In fact, the handful known examples of this Breguet calendar/chrono watch in steel were made and sold over three decades in the 1950s, 60s and 70s. In other words, these Breguet rarities were produced in tiny quantities compared to their Patek Phillipe, Audemars Piguet and Rolex counterparts.
This unusual Breguet shares a similar movement to Rolex’s Dato Compax model, also known as the “Jean-Claude Killy.” Whereas the Rolex pre-Daytona models featured a Valjoux 72C caliber, Breguet used the Valjoux caliber 88, which is a modified 72C caliber with an additional moon phase complication.
The dial layout and balance also draw comparison to Patek Philippe’s 1518 and 2499 references. Despite the similarities to the Rolex and Patek, this watch maintains a distinctive Breguet personality and charm.
The large case of this Breguet features strong lugs and convex bezel. The graphic dial balances a reserved and monochromatic layout with subtle color present only in the moon phase window.
The present timepiece is a superb example of one of Breguet’s rare steel-cased triple calendar chronograph wristwatches. To date, less than 10 examples are known publicly.
Date of Production: 1967
Movement: Manual, based on Valjoux Cal 88
Jewels: 18
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Case: 36 mm.
Dial: Silvered, days and months in French
Remark: case, dial and crystal signed Breguet
